Creases on collar and Cuffs

 

Question:

In heavy-knit structures and flat-back rib structures like collars (especially mercerised collars), crease marks can be noticed even after the addition of lubricants. This causes the formation of dark lines on collars. How can this be prevented?

Answer:

Firstly, it should be ensured that the merceriser has not caused the creases. It is better to examine the fabric for creases before dyeing. If merceriser creases are present, it would be prudent to re-mercerise if the creases are mild, or divert to full bleach or pale shades that may not show up the creases. Despite the lubricants, the fabric, being heavy, could form firm creases due to its own wet weight, and, cause creasing during dyeing. The chances of creasing are also possible when passing through the nozzle with inadequate diameter or if there is an imbalance in the liquor/fabric rope speeds.

The possible solutions are as follows:

Increasing material-liquor ratio in the soft flow should help in achieving better buoyancy to keep the wet fabric separated and also under the dye liquor, thus reducing the propensity to form creases

As collars are usually flat-back and rib structures, the 'fabric bulk' is not a necessary feature as compared to the body fabric. Therefore, they could be dyed on beams or pad batch/pad steam type of dyeing systems, where the propensity to crease is low

Lubricants do help in smooth flow of the fabric through the system and, therefore, minimize abrasion and fabric entanglement. Consequently, they help in reducing creases