Plissé Prints

 

Plissé Prints


Plissé is the process where a strong alkali is applied to 100% cotton fabric in a pattern. After a reaction time of several minutes, the fabric is washed to remove the alkali. The alkali will cause the fabric to shrink in the printed area. The shrinkage causes puckering in the adjacent non-printed areas. If the print pattern is a parallel stripe, the resulting fabric will have a seersucker appearance. The application can be direct, where the alkali is printed onto the fabric, followed by dwell time on a conveyor belt to allow for reaction (see Table 1). Alternatively, the fabric can be printed with a print paste containing a water repellant chemical plus a binder. After curing, the fabric is passed through a strong alkaline bath and then allowed to react before washing. This second method is sometimes referred to a “Fitted Plissé” (see Tables I and II). In both cases the washed fabric shows a differential shrinking effect known as plissé.

Table 1

Print Paste – Direct Plissé Print Chemical

Amount, g/kg

Details

Thickener

35

Starch ether

Sodium hydroxide, 50%

800

Alkali (50ºBè - 106º Tw)

Wetting agent

2

Anionic wetting agent

Water

Bulk

Water to total volume

Total

1000

 

Table II

Print Paste – Fitted Plissé Chemical

Amount, g/kg

Details

Thickener

35

Polyacrylate

Wax emulsion

100

Water repellant

Fluoro-chemical

10

Water repellant

Binder

200

Styrene acrylate

Cross linking agent

5

Water

Bulk

Water to total volume

 

Table II

Padding – For Fitted Plissé Chemical

Amount, g/kg

Details

Water

198

Sodium Hydroxide, 50%

800

Add sodium hydroxide to water

Wetting agent

2

Total

1000